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Now here’s the scrub

The truth about microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion: It’s a big word. And, it’s also one of the biggest procedures in cosmetic surgery today. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, Arlington Heights, Ill., microdermabrasion is one of the Top 5 minimally invasive cosmetic procedures performed in the United States in 2005, with in 838,000 procedures performed by board-certified physicians (even more were performed in spas and skin care facilities).

Those numbers mean that more than 2,300 microdermabrasion procedures take place every day. With that kind of popularity, you likely know someone who has had it, someone who is considering it, or you’re considering it yourself. And, that’s the case with good reason, unlike many other cosmetic procedures, microdermabrasion is an outpatient, minimally invasive procedure in which dead skin cells are sloughed off with the use of tiny crystals. The process stimulates the skin to produce collagen and healthy new skin cells. What’s left often is brighter, appears less wrinkled, and, therefore, younger. Microdermabrasion also can help reduce acne, and is a good bet for those who are sensitive to glycolic peels and other chemical treatments.

Treatments range in cost from $75 to $300. If you have multiple treatments, which is usually recommended, the cost can add up, but the procedures are still less than most other cosmetic surgery.

But as the popularity of the procedure has increased, so, too, has the number of places where you can have it done and the number of tools used to perform it. That means there’s a certain amount of buyer be aware. We polled experts in medicine and cosmetology on what the questions you need to ask are before getting this uplift to your skin.

Three questions to ask the expert:

What tools do you use?

Lower-grade tools, the kinds most spas and salons without medical staff use, do work. They’re good for exfoliation, but they don’t remove all of the dead cells that the stronger medical tools do, in part because the U.S. Food and Drug Administration regulates the use of the strong stuff.

Some experts believe a doctor’s office is the way to go, because staff will be medically trained, while others believe estheticians actually may be more experienced because they may perform the procedures more often. Whichever option you choose, ask about the tools they use and what results they think you realistically can achieve. Ask what kind of emergency procedures and staff are on premise in case they are needed. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery cautions that not all medical centers have doctors on staff during all procedures, so don’t assume a doctor will handle your microdermabrasion just because you opt for a medical facility over a spa. Whatever you choose, ask about sanitary procedures for cleaning equipment.

What are the risks?

While microdermabrasion generally is painless, using the treatment on skin abrasions that are already raw can cause irritation. Using too-aggressive treatment can take off live skin cells as well as dead, which can leave light-colored spots that can take months to go away, explains Dr. Nicolette Picerno, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Denver.

What follow-up care do you recommend?

Immediate follow-up care is just basic skin sense. You’ll need to be extra diligent about wearing sunscreen, as the skin will be raw and easily burned (not only will that be painful, but you’ll be adding back the damage you just tried to repair). Dino Morra of The Beauty Bungalow, Beverly Hills, Calif., suggests taking Tylenol or other medication beforehand and applying an anti-inflammatory cream afterward. Others opt for a moisturizer with vitamin C. Most patients need repeat treatments to achieve the desired results. While each patient is different, Dr. Picerno says the most common frequency is once a month, but those with deep pigmentation and scarring may opt for a schedule of six-to-eight treatments over a period of six-to-eight weeks.

Three questions to ask yourself:

What are my goals for getting the procedure?

Dr. Picerno does not recommend microdermabrasion for those with very fair skin or rosacea. Dr. James C. Fairfield of the Center for Aesthetics in Lansdale, Pa., says some patients choose cosmetic microdermabrasion because it feels good, much like a facial. To remove mild acne scars, as well as whiteheads and blackheads, he recommends medical-grade microdermabrasion.

What options do I have?

In addition to spa treatments and medical center treatments, there a number of at-home products hitting drugstore shelves. Like spa treatments are weaker than medical-grade tools, at-home kits may not be as strong as spa treatments. However, for those with mild skin tone unevenness and mild acne, an at-home treatment may yield some results.

On which body parts do I want younger-looking skin?

The face is the most common place for microdermabrasion, because it is the most visible, and it the most exposed to sun and other elements. The neck, hands and chest also are frequent spots. The back and back of the arms are candidates for those who have acne in those areas. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery recommends you specifically ask your technician whether or not he or she has performed microdermabrasion on the part of the body where you want to see results.

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